One of the great joys of moving to the East Coast was discovering wild mushrooms. My first autumn in New York, a chef friend of mine took us foraging up in the Hudson River Valley where we hunted for chanterelles. Each golden cap was like finding treasure, though the real rewards came later when my friend served them over homemade pasta. The experience made its way into Sweetbitter, and the announcement of autumn is the delivery of chanterelles to the restaurant. Tess, Sweetbitter’s protagonist who moves to New York City at twenty-two, first experiences them in an omelet, which is a version of what I do for myself at home.
Most times I can’t be bothered to fret over an omelet, instead I serve the caramelized chanterelles with soft scrambled eggs and a piece of toast. Don’t relegate eggs to breakfast – there isn’t a more elegant dinner than adding a few lightly dressed salad greens and a glass of Chablis.
Recipe adapted from Canal House Cooks Every Day by Christopher Hamilton and Melissa Hirscheimer (Andrew McMeel, 2012), also known as my favorite cookbook.